Spices, rum and deep-sea fishing

[Bulldog]

    

Destination: Grenada


Spices, rum and deep-sea fishing

         
By DOUG ENGLISH, LONDON FREELANCE WRITER



A man plays a pick-up game of cricket with a tennis ball on Grand Anse Beach on the Caribbean island of Grenada. (AP Photo/Lynne Sladky)

This has to be a joke. Our group's supposed to do something called river tubing but the water's only ankle deep.

Still, we dutifully don hard hats and life-jackets, lower our butts into oversized, doughnut-shaped rubber tubes and are set adrift.

Within minutes we're captured by the current, swept through white-water rapids and bounced off boulders.

Strong arms grab us and allow a brief breather before launching us into the foam again.

We're on the Balthazar River in the Caribbean island of Grenada. The strong arms belong to cheerful young men from Adventure Jeep Tours who accompany us on a 45-minute adventure I dub "Canadians on the rocks.'' (Visit www.adventuregrenada.com).

At the halfway point there's a stop for "entertainment.'' Our escorts warn they're not professionals -- and proceed to prove it.

First they serenade us with "If you're happy and you know it clap your hands.'' Audience participation calls for much mutual splashing of water.

The "diving demonstration'' that follows is worse, so bad, in fact, a colleague who took lessons in her youth climbs the river bank and shows them how.

After a complimentary rum punch we head for the next activity, a hike in the rainforest.

Seven Sisters, a series of waterfalls on a private estate, is a popular destination.

Admission is only EC$5 (US$2), but hikers are expected to use a guide, whose fee depends on the size of the group. Figure on EC$10 per person (US$4) for a large party to EC$50-$60 (US$20-$24) per person for just a couple.

Most hikes end at the first waterfall, where there's time for a swim. Wear runners or hikers, rather than flip-flops

Grenada is famous for spices, and Dougalston Spice, a working plantation, is a good place to learn about them and buy samples. Small plastic bags of powdered cinnamon, ground bay leaf, combinations of cloves, nutmeg and bay leaf, are only US$1 or $2.

Belmont Estate, a 300-year-old cocoa plantation, offers tours for US$2 and a buffet lunch for about US$20.

The River Antoine distillery tour was my favourite, not just because they make and sell rum. Established in 1785, it still uses the original water-powered iron wheel to run the conveyor belt, and everything is done by hand.

Tours are run daily, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., and cost EC$5 (US$2), which includes a tasting. They sell two brands of Rivers Royale Grenadine Rum, one 75 per cent by volume and 150 proof, the other 69 per cent by volume, 138 proof, for about EC$25 (US$10).

If you're staying on the island as opposed to visiting off a cruise ship, consider these activities:

- The Friday night fish fry in Gouyave, a fishing village an hour's drive north of the capital, St. George's. It's a street party where visitors can eat, drink, listen to a steel band and drumming, and dance to a DJ.

- Snorkelling at Moliniere Bay.

- Deep-sea fishing. Badger Dearman, an engaging Englishman, runs the award-winning Grenada Sport Fishing. Visit www.grenadasportfishing.com.

- Island touring. A tourism contact advised anyone tempted to rent a car to take a van tour first to get an idea of driving conditions. Kennedy's Tours was cited as being particularly good (www.Kennedytours.com). If you do rent, get a jeep, which provides more clearance. Two firms, Dab's and Archie's, were recommended.

For tourism information, visit www.grenadagrenadines.com.

http://www.canoe.ca/Travel/Caribbean/LesserAntilles/2008/01/13/4771797-sun.html